How to Rebalance Your ETF Portfolio in Australia
Your ETF portfolio drifts over time. Learn how to rebalance it in Australia, when to do it, how to sidestep extra CGT, plus a worked example with numbers.
8 min read
Your ETF portfolio drifts over time. A strong run in shares quietly pushes your risk higher than you signed up for. Rebalancing is how you nudge it back, and in Australia the trick is doing it without triggering unnecessary tax or overcomplicating your life. This is part of our wider getting started with investing guide on Snowball Invest. General information only, not personal financial or tax advice.
Quick answer
Rebalancing means restoring your ETF holdings to their target split after markets have moved them around. The cheapest way is to direct your next contributions into the underweight fund, so there is no selling and no capital gains tax. Selling to rebalance is a CGT event, though units held over 12 months may qualify for the 50% discount. Once or twice a year is plenty for most DIY investors.
In this guide
- โWhat rebalancing is and why portfolios drift
- โCalendar versus threshold approaches, and how to combine them
- โThe no-sell method that avoids CGT entirely
- โA worked example with real numbers
- โThe capital gains catch when you do have to sell
โ๏ธ What is portfolio rebalancing?
When you set up an ETF portfolio, you choose a target allocation. Say 70% in a broad growth ETF and 30% in a defensive bond ETF. That split reflects your risk tolerance and your goals.
Markets do not stay still. After a strong run in equities, your growth ETF might climb to 78% of your portfolio while your defensive holding shrinks to 22%. Your actual risk exposure has quietly shifted, even though you did nothing.
๐ฏ The essential: Rebalancing is the act of restoring your original split. You are correcting for portfolio drift, the natural tendency of a portfolio to wander away from its target as different assets grow at different rates. It is not complicated, but it does take a bit of attention.
๐ฏ Why bother rebalancing?
Two reasons, and they are both honest ones.
Risk creep. If growth assets keep outperforming, your portfolio gradually becomes riskier than you intended. A 70/30 investor who ignores drift for a few years might end up with an 85/15 portfolio. That is a meaningfully different risk profile, and it can hurt if markets fall sharply.
You systematically buy low and trim high. When you rebalance, you add to whatever has underperformed and trim whatever has run hard. That is the right direction. Whether it actually boosts long-term returns is a different question.
To be straight with you: the evidence on rebalancing improving returns is mixed. Some studies show a small benefit, others show it makes little difference after costs. The main reason to rebalance is risk management, not return chasing.
๐๏ธ The two main approaches
Calendar-based rebalancing. You pick a date or two each year and check your allocation then. Many Australian investors do this in June or July, when they are already looking at their finances for tax time. It is simple, low effort, and easy to stick to. The downside is that a big market move between check-ins could leave you off-target for months.
Threshold-based rebalancing. Instead of checking on a schedule, you rebalance whenever any holding drifts more than a set amount from its target. A common starting point is a 5 percentage point band. If your target is 70% growth and it climbs to 76%, you act. If it only drifts to 73%, you leave it alone. It is more precise, but you need to check more often.
| Calendar | Threshold | |
|---|---|---|
| Trigger | A set date, once or twice a year | Drift beyond a set band (e.g. 5 pp) |
| Effort | Low | Higher, needs regular checking |
| Precision | Lower | Higher |
| Best for | Simple two or three-fund portfolios | Investors who like to track closely |
Combining both is the sweet spot for most people. Check on a schedule, say twice a year, but only act if a threshold has been breached. You are not reacting to every small wobble, but you are not ignoring a 10 percentage point drift either.
๐ธ The cheapest way to rebalance
If you are still in the accumulation phase and adding money regularly, you have a powerful tool: direct your next contribution to the underweight holding. No selling, no brokerage on a sale, no CGT event. Just buy more of whatever has fallen behind.
Say your growth ETF has drifted high and your defensive ETF is underweight by $2,000. Your next $2,000 contribution goes entirely into the defensive ETF. Done. You have rebalanced without touching your existing units.
This works best when the drift is moderate and your contributions are meaningful relative to your portfolio size. For larger portfolios or bigger drifts, contributions alone may not be enough.
๐ข A worked example
Illustrative example only. These figures are hypothetical and do not represent any real fund or return. You started with $50,000 split 70/30: $35,000 in a growth ETF and $15,000 in a defensive ETF. After a strong market run, your portfolio looks like this.
| Holding | Current value | Current % |
|---|---|---|
| Growth ETF | $42,000 | 76% |
| Defensive ETF | $13,000 | 24% |
| Total | $55,000 | 100% |
Your target was 70/30. You are now sitting at roughly 76/24. The drift has pushed you outside a 5 pp band, so it is time to act. To restore 70/30 on a $55,000 portfolio, you need $38,500 in the growth ETF and $16,500 in the defensive ETF, a shift of $3,500.
| Holding | Target value | Current value | Action |
|---|---|---|---|
| Growth ETF | $38,500 | $42,000 | Reduce by $3,500 |
| Defensive ETF | $16,500 | $13,000 | Increase by $3,500 |
Option 1 (preferred): direct your next $3,500 of contributions entirely to the defensive ETF. No selling required. Option 2: sell $3,500 of growth ETF units and buy defensive ETF units. This restores the balance immediately but triggers a CGT event on the sale. Option 1 is almost always the better starting point.
๐งพ When you have to sell, and the CGT catch
Sometimes contributions are not enough. If your portfolio is large, or the drift is significant, you may need to sell to rebalance. Selling ETF units is a capital gains tax event in Australia. Here is what that means in plain terms.
Held less than 12 months, the full capital gain is added to your taxable income with no discount. Held 12 months or more, you may be eligible for the 50% CGT discount, meaning only half the gain is added to your taxable income. This is why many investors prefer to rebalance by buying rather than selling.
CGT rules are personal and depend on your income, your cost base, and which units you sell, such as first in first out versus specific identification. Always speak to a registered tax agent before selling to rebalance. For the mechanics of how CGT works on investments, see our guide to capital gains tax on shares in Australia. This article does not constitute tax advice.
๐งฐ Tools to track your portfolio
You do not need anything fancy. The goal is to make checking quick enough that you actually do it. A simple spreadsheet in Google Sheets or Excel works well: three columns for target %, current value, and current %. The spreadsheet does the maths and shows you the drift at a glance.
A portfolio tracker app such as Sharesight, popular with Australian investors, can automate a lot of this and help with tax reporting. That is an example, not an endorsement. Whatever you use, set a reminder. Twice a year is fine. The tool matters less than the habit.
๐ Compound Interest Calculator
Model how contributions and growth compound over time, so you can see why steady, low-fuss investing beats constant tinkering.
โฑ๏ธ How often is enough?
For most DIY ETF investors, once or twice a year is plenty. Over-tinkering is a real risk. Every sale generates brokerage, every sale of a profitable holding is a potential CGT event, and the more often you check, the more tempted you are to react to short-term noise.
If you are thinking about how your portfolio is structured, our guides on how many ETFs you should own and building a simple ETF portfolio are worth a read. The best rebalancing strategy is one you will actually follow. Simple and consistent beats clever and erratic every time.
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โ Frequently asked questions
How often should I rebalance my ETF portfolio?
+
Once or twice a year is enough for most people. More frequent rebalancing adds cost and complexity without meaningfully improving outcomes. Pick a schedule, stick to it, and only act if your portfolio has drifted beyond your threshold.
Do I have to sell ETFs to rebalance?
+
No. If you are still adding money regularly, you can direct contributions to the underweight holding. This avoids selling and any CGT event. It is the preferred approach for investors in the accumulation phase.
Does rebalancing trigger capital gains tax in Australia?
+
Selling ETF units to rebalance is a CGT event in Australia. The 50% CGT discount may apply if you have held the units for more than 12 months. Your personal tax outcome depends on your income, cost base, and which units you sell. Speak to a registered tax agent for advice on your situation.
What is a rebalancing band?
+
A rebalancing band is a drift threshold that triggers action. For example, a 5 percentage point band means you only rebalance if a holding moves more than 5 pp from its target. It stops you from reacting to every small market move and keeps transaction costs down.
Should beginners rebalance?
+
Yes, but keep it simple. Check once a year, use new contributions to top up the underweight holding, and do not overthink it. A two-fund portfolio with an annual check-in is a perfectly solid approach.
What if my portfolio is inside super?
+
Rebalancing inside super does not trigger personal CGT because the fund pays tax at the fund level, not you directly. Check your fund's switching rules and any associated fees before making changes. Some funds charge a fee per switch.
๐ Recommended reading
The Simple Path to Wealth
JL Collins

The Simple Path to Wealth
The friendliest on-ramp to index investing there is, born from letters a dad wrote his daughter. It makes 'buy the whole market and chill' feel obvious, just map his US fund picks onto Aussie equivalents and super.
The Little Book of Common Sense Investing
John C. Bogle

The Little Book of Common Sense Investing
From the man who invented the index fund, this is the short, sharp case for low-cost investing that has aged like fine wine. The maths on fees is universal, just think ETFs and super instead of his US funds.
The Bogleheads' Guide to Investing
Taylor Larimore, Mel Lindauer & Michael LeBoeuf

The Bogleheads' Guide to Investing
The friendly community bible of low-cost, buy-and-hold index investing, written by everyday investors rather than salespeople. The core philosophy is timeless for Aussies, just read the tax-advantaged account bits as super.
Some links above are affiliate links. If you buy through them, Snowball Invest may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only recommend books we'd suggest anyway.
Sources
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Explore the calculators โGeneral information only. This article is educational and does not constitute personal financial advice. It does not account for your circumstances. Consider your own situation and seek advice from a licensed adviser before acting. Read our full disclaimer.
Timothy Hirou Gaschereau
Founder of Snowball Invest, not a financial adviser.
I write about what I'm learning myself, because nobody ever taught us how to take control of our own money. It's a skill, not a mystery, and it's never too late to learn it. The best day to start was yesterday, the second best is today.
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