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LVR and Home Equity Calculator

Your loan to value ratio, your real usable equity, and what that equity actually buys once stamp duty is paid.

Built and checked byTimothy Hirou GaschereauFigures verified at the source on

Your LVR and your usable equity are two numbers every Australian property owner should know cold, and most people only know the flattering one. Put in your property value and your loan balance and you get your LVR, your total equity, and the equity you can genuinely access without triggering lenders mortgage insurance. Then, because usable equity is a deposit rather than a purchase price, it prices what that equity would actually buy in your state after duty.

Your details

Why 80% is the line

At or below 80% LVR you avoid lenders mortgage insurance, you unlock the sharper rate tiers, and you can release equity without paying LMI on the new total. Everything on this page pivots on that number.

Your loan to value ratio

50.0%

Total equity

$400,000

Usable equity

$240,000

Lenders mortgage insurance

Not required

Total equity and usable equity are not the same thing

Your property is worth $800,000 and you owe $400,000, so on paper you have $400,000. A lender will not touch most of that. They work to 80% of the value, which is $640,000, then subtract your loan. That leaves $240,000 you can actually borrow against.

Some lenders will go to 90%, which would release another $80,000. LMI then applies to the whole new loan, not just the extra bit, so it is rarely the bargain it looks like.

What that equity actually buys in NSW

Up to $990,402. The equity is not the purchase price, it is the deposit and the costs. Here that is $198,080 of deposit, $38,920 of stamp duty and registration, and about $3,000 of legals and inspections. A new loan of $792,322 covers the rest, and you have to be able to service it.

Thinking about the LMI on a higher LVR? Estimate the premium before you decide it is worth it.

Estimate only. Lender policies vary, and the figure that actually matters is the bank's own valuation, not yours. Usable equity is borrowing capacity, not cash: you still have to service the larger loan, and serviceability is assessed with a buffer well above the current rate.

How to use this calculator

  1. 1. Your best honest estimate. Worth remembering that when it counts, the lender orders its own valuation and that is the figure they lend against, not yours.
  2. 2. The current balance, not the original loan amount, and include every loan secured against the property.
  3. 3. Total equity is the satisfying number. Usable equity is the one a lender will act on, and it is always smaller.
  4. 4. Pick the state and the deposit you would put down. Stamp duty is state law, so the same equity stretches further in some states than others.

What LVR is, and why 80% is the number that matters

LVR is your loan balance divided by your property value, as a percentage. Owe $400,000 on a home worth $800,000 and your LVR is 50%. The reason 80% gets all the attention is that it is the line most Australian lenders use to decide whether lenders mortgage insurance applies.

Above 80% the lender sees more risk and charges LMI, a one-off premium that can run into the tens of thousands on a large loan. The part people miss is that LMI protects the lender, not you, and it is usually capitalised into the loan, so you pay interest on the premium for years afterwards.

Get to 80% or below and two things change. LMI disappears from the conversation, and you are in a much stronger position on rate, because lenders price LVR in tiers and compete harder for lower-risk borrowers. Most people never ring up and ask after their LVR improves, which is free money left sitting there.

Total equity and usable equity are not the same thing

This is where most people go wrong, so it is worth slowing down. Total equity is just value minus loan. On an $800,000 home with a $400,000 loan that is $400,000, and it is the number that feels good to look at.

Usable equity is a different question. It is what you can borrow against while staying at or below 80% LVR, so it is 80% of the value minus your loan. Eighty percent of $800,000 is $640,000, minus the $400,000 loan leaves $240,000 of usable equity. The other $160,000 is real wealth, it just sits behind the 80% wall and costs you LMI to reach.

Usable equity is also not cash. It is borrowing capacity. The lender still has to be satisfied you can service the larger debt, and they stress test it at a buffer of three percentage points above the actual rate. Plenty of people have equity on paper and no ability to access it.

Using equity to buy again, and the mistake in the maths

Here is the error worth correcting. People see $240,000 of usable equity and picture a $240,000 unit. That is not how it works. The equity funds the deposit and the upfront costs. A new loan covers the rest.

Run it properly and $240,000 of usable equity in New South Wales covers a 20% deposit, the stamp duty and the legals on a property of roughly $990,000, with a new loan of about $792,000 behind it. That is a different conversation entirely, in both directions: the buying power is far greater than people assume, and so is the debt.

Where you buy changes the answer too, because duty is state law. The same $320,000 of usable equity stretches to about $1.32 million in New South Wales but only $1.24 million in Victoria, purely because Victorian duty on that price is close to $15,000 higher. The calculator above uses each state's real duty scale rather than a rule of thumb, so switching the state actually moves the number.

The three risks worth naming plainly

The bank's valuation. What you think the place is worth is not what they lend against. Lenders use their own registered valuers and they can come in conservatively, especially in a softening market. A valuation $50,000 below your estimate on an $800,000 home wipes $40,000 off your usable equity overnight, and it usually surfaces late, after you have made plans.

Serviceability. Equity is not approval. Your income has to carry the existing loan and the new one, assessed with that three percentage point buffer on top. Rental income counts, but lenders shade it rather than taking it at face value.

Cross-collateralisation. This is the one that quietly traps people. If one lender secures both properties against both debts, you are cross-collateralised. It looks convenient right up until you want to sell one, at which point the lender has to reassess the security over the other, or you want to refinance one independently and find you cannot. The cleaner structure is to release equity as a separate facility and keep the two properties as separate securities. Ask your broker to spell out which one you are being offered.

FAQ

How do I get my LVR below 80%?

Two levers: cut the loan balance or lift the property value. Extra repayments work directly. A genuine rise in value works too, but only once the lender formally revalues, so you have to ask. Renovations that add real value can help, though cosmetic updates rarely move it enough to matter. Hitting 80% is also your cue to renegotiate the rate.

Can I use my equity as a deposit without selling?

Yes, and that is the usual reason people run this. The lender releases your usable equity as a top-up loan or a separate facility, and you use it for the deposit and costs on the next property, which then carries its own loan. You keep your home. You also take on more debt, and your income has to service both.

What is the difference between total equity and usable equity?

Total equity is value minus loan. Usable equity is 80% of the value minus the loan, so it is the part you can borrow against without triggering LMI. On an $800,000 home with a $400,000 loan that is $400,000 versus $240,000. The gap is real wealth, it just costs LMI to reach.

What happens if I borrow above 80% LVR?

Lenders mortgage insurance applies, a one-off premium that is often $10,000 to $30,000 or more on a large loan, and it is usually added to the loan so you pay interest on it. Some lenders will release equity up to 90%, but the LMI is charged on the whole new loan, not just the extra slice.

Does the bank use my estimate or their own valuation?

Theirs, always. When you apply to release equity or refinance, the lender orders a valuation from a registered valuer, and that figure is what they lend against, not your estimate and not the comparable sale you found online. Worth running this calculator on a range of values rather than only your most optimistic one.

Does this calculator account for stamp duty?

Yes, and that is the point of the next purchase panel. It runs the real duty scale for the state you pick, plus mortgage registration and an allowance for legals and inspections, then solves for the price your usable equity can actually cover. Switching states changes the answer by tens of thousands.

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Where these numbers come from

Every rate and threshold in this calculator was read off the official page, not copied from another calculator. Check them yourself, they change.

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Disclaimer

Estimates only, not financial advice. The results follow the figures you enter and a standard 80% LVR threshold, and the next purchase panel uses each state's published transfer duty scale plus an allowance for legal and inspection costs. Lender policies, valuations, serviceability assessments and duty concessions all vary and change over time, and first home buyer concessions are not applied here. Speak to a licensed mortgage broker or adviser who can assess your full situation before acting.